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婚戒品牌故事 (Ⅰ) - 寶格麗 Bvlgari

10/27/2021

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品牌簡介:
寶格麗(英語:Bvlgari)是一個世界知名的奢侈品名牌,由希臘裔的索提裡歐·寶格麗(Sotirio Bulgari,Σωτήριος Βούλγαρης)於1884年在義大利羅馬創立。其產品線除了創立之初的高級寶石系列之外,後來也增加腕錶、皮包、香水等高級精品,2004年開始跨足高級旅館的經營。
寶格麗的正式商標為採用古羅馬式拼法的「BVLGARI」,而非「BULGARI」,因為古羅馬的字母中沒有「U」。
索提裡歐·寶格麗在希臘的伊庇魯斯小鎮發跡,開創他的銀器生涯,當時的店鋪都還存留著。 1877年,他離開了希臘,前往克基拉島,再到那不勒斯,1881年落腳在義大利羅馬,在1884年創立了寶格麗公司,在via Sistina開設第一家店鋪。
1905年,索帝理歐在兒子康士坦丁(Costantino;1889-1973)和喬奇亞(Giorgio;1890-1966)的協助下,在Via Condotti創設寶格麗   總店,至今仍是寶格麗的旗艦店。之後,總店成為上流社會人士購買高品質的珠寶的地方。
1970年代起,寶格麗開始拓展國際事業,在紐約開設第一家海外分店,之後也進軍巴黎、日內瓦和蒙地卡羅,至今全球已有236間分店       (2008年8月)。
1984年,喬其亞的兒子保羅(Paolo)和尼古拉(Nicola)接下總裁和副總裁的職位,他們的姪子法蘭西斯克·特朗潘尼(Francesco Trapani)則接下CEO的職位。特朗潘尼在1990年代初期,為了讓公司多樣化,設立了香水產品線,在他的任期之下,寶格麗公司正式成為國際知名奢侈品品牌。
1995年,寶格麗公司在米蘭證券交易所掛牌上市,在1997到2003年間,收入成長了150%,散戶股東​​所持有的股份就佔了全股份的45%。
2001年,寶格麗和Mariott International合資成立了旅館事業體Bvlgari Hotels and Resorts,2004年在米蘭開設第一家精品旅館,接著
2006年在峇裡島開幕。寶格麗公司也為義大利的客運郵輪公司Silversea提供船上的精品物件。
2011年3月8曰LVMH將發行1,650萬股公司股份支付Bvlgari家族持有的1.525億股或50.4%Bvlgari股份,涉18.7億歐元,LVMH亦同時向Bvlgari小股東提出全面收購,每股作價12.25歐元,涉最多約37億歐元(約405.6億港元) 交易完成後,Bvlgari家族將是LVMH第二大股東。
 

Based in Rome, the jewelry firm of Bulgari is best known for their bold designs from the 1960’s to 80’s. The firm’s history begins with the patriarch of the Bulgari family, Sotirios (1857-1932). After a series of political upheavals and traumatic robberies, Sotirios and his father moved in 1877 from Paramythia to the Greek island of Corfu where they set up a successful silver workshop, practicing an art passed through their family since Byzantine times.
In 1880, Sotirios left Greece, sailing to Italy with an ambitious friend, Demetrios Kremos. Initially the two opened a store in Naples. After robbers cleaned out their inventory in 1881, they moved to Rome -Sotirios reputedly had all of eighty cents of lira left in his pocket. He and Kremos began by selling their wares through other vendors, but they soon had enough money to open their own shop. In 1884, Bulgari ended the partnership and opened his own store at 85 Via Sistina in Rome. There he sold silver objects, antiques, and archaeological-revival jewellery, which was still popular in Rome during the time. In 1894, the store moved to larger premises. In 1905, it moved yet again. Seasonal stores were opened outside of Rome in locations such as St. Moritz and Lucerne.
During the early years of the twentieth century, Sotirios’s sons, Giorgio and Constantino, changed Bulgari’s stylistic direction. From the 1920’s until the 1960’s, utmost care was taken to produce jewellery in line with current French fashions. Styles meandered from Edwardian to Deco to Retro to Modern. Archaeological jewellery was no longer produced. Giorgio managed the business and kept a watchful eye over its designs. Constantino studied ancient silversmithing techniques, researching and writing about the history of silver production in Italy. Bulgari Gem-Set Ring and Earrings. Photo Courtesy of Christie's
As the third generation of Bulgari children entered the business (Giorgio’s sons, Paolo and Nicola, and Constantino’s daughters, Anna and Marina), the firm’s ambitions changed yet again. No longer following French styles, Bulgari instead aimed to create its own. In 1976, when Marina left, the family hired former Tiffany & Co. designer Donald Claflin to aid in this enterprise. By the 1980’s, success was theirs. “I think your jewellery is the 1980’s,” Andy Warhol said in an interview with Nicola Bulgari, “Everybody’s trying to copy this look.”Volume and color were the new bywords. The firm produced massive colored-stone parures inspired by Indian, Iranian, and Egyptian sources. Featuring bubbly, large cabochon-cut gemstones, the pieces flaunted bright and adventurous color combinations. Bulgari’s modular jewels were also bold and bright. The basic idea was to use striking, geometric shapes to form a distinct, repetitive pattern. The first in the series, Parenthesi, featured stylized parenthesis and is reputedly the most copied of Bulgari’s designs. During this era, Bulgari also became famous for its coin jewellery. These pieces referenced the firm’s nineteenth-century beginnings, when it was creating almost exclusively archaeological jewellery, and also its Italian and Greek heritage. Large, interesting, and often very old coins were set in bezels and attached to a filed, curb-link chain. Coin jewelry is now among the firm’s trademarks.
Bulgari Multi-Color Sapphire and Diamond Suite. Photo Courtesy of Christie's.
As the fourth generation of Bulgari children has been brought into the fold, Bulgari’s success has continued. In the early 1990’s, the firm introduced the Chandra collection to great acclaim. Chandra pieces features molded, white porcelain beads combined with gold and precious stones. During the 1990’s, the firm also expanded its selection to watches. With locations all over the globe, its jewellery remains distinctive and fashionable, flaunted by royalty and stars of the first order.


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